The Making of a Judith Leiber Handbag by Lulu Guiness

…the first operation consists of cutting a paper pattern and then cutting every part of the bag, completely by hand, in whatever material is being used. After that, the skins or fabric are gathered, folded, shirred, quilted or trapunto-puffed before marriage to their interlinings and later attachment to their frames. Whenever a pattern requires bending or stitching, the leather is skived, or thinned, to the necessary degree. If a fabric is used, particularly a tartan, each section is carefully matched.
A latex machine, similar to one utilized in shoe factories, is used only for putting interlinings together. The interlinings are one of the truly hidden secrets of a Leiber bag, with as many as seven in a single design. Among the interlinings used are paper, muslin, flannel, horsehair, foam rubber, canvas and wadding. All of them go into some bags at least several go into every bag.
The soft bags usually take an extra layer of a stiff material.

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